pottery sustainable practices: reclaiming clay

introduction: how does sustainability show up in pottery, and why is reclaiming clay such a key part of it?

if you work with clay, you know how quickly scraps add up. reclaiming clay is one of the easiest, most sustainable ways to reduce waste in the studio - and it adds something meaningful to your process. here’s how to do it right.

1. collect your scraps
   keep trimmings, dried-out bits, failed pieces, and splash pan clay in one container. I use plastic paint cans with lids since I don’t produce a huge amount at once. you can separate clay types if you want, but I mix everything together. make sure you run a test tile of the clay mix before you glaze a full piece since the co-efficient of thermal expansion (CTE) will be different for a mix of clays than for a single ceramic body. if you’ve used mason stains or underglaze, it’s still reclaimable. anything with glaze isn’t.

2. break it down
   tear or cut up your soft clay. for bone-dry chunks, a hammer works. smaller pieces rehydrate better and more evenly.

3. soak
   fill your bucket with water until the clay is fully submerged. how long it takes depends on the amount - smaller batches go faster.

4. mix
   once soaked, use a mixer to get the clay to a smooth, even consistency.

5. dry on plasterboard
   plasterboard or a standard, white drywall patch to help pull moisture out evenly. spread the clay across the surface in a consistent layer.

6. watch the drying
   as it dries, the clay lightens in color and firms up. keep an eye on it so it doesn’t go too far.

7. flip when edges lift
   once the clay starts peeling up at the edges, it’s time to flip. use a plastic paint scraper. I usually check every 30 minutes, but timing depends on thickness and humidity. don’t walk away for too long - if it dries out completely, you’ll have to soak it again.

8. check consistency
   you want it firm but still workable. too wet, and it slumps. too dry, and it loses plasticity - meaning it won’t shape without cracking.

9. wedge it
   once it feels right, wedge the clay to even out the texture and remove air pockets. wedging clay is covered in this blog post.

10. store it properly
    wrap your clay in a heavy-duty plastic bag or a drop cloth, then seal it in an airtight container. I use buckets with screw-on lids - they’re easier to open than lidded buckets that snap close. if you have one with a snap closure, I highly recommend keeping one of these tools on hand to help you open it. if stored well, reclaimed clay can last indefinitely.

a quick note on fired clay

you can’t reclaim clay once it’s been through a bisque firing. bisque is the first firing stage that turns clay into a permanent, porous form - called bisqueware - so that glaze can stick properly. once it hits that point, it’s no longer workable or reclaimable. only unfired clay can go back into the bucket.

conclusion

reclaiming clay isn’t just about saving scraps - it’s about working more intentionally. it’s simple, cost-effective, and one of the best sustainable habits you can build into your studio routine. every bit helps.